Information

Health Problems in Dachshunds

Lafora’s Disease (Lafora’s Epilepsy)

There is a condition which is found predominantly in Miniature Wire Haired Dachshunds called ‘Lafora’s Epilepsy’ disease.

Lafora’s disease is an inherited, late onset, progressive myoclonic epilepsy. This degenerative neurological disease has been identified in Miniature Wirehaired Dachshunds but it has also been known to be in smooth and long haired Dachshunds. The disease is characterized by myoclonus. Typically this looks like a backwards shuddering/jerking of the head when there is movement towards the eyes, when light intensity increases, when there is flickering light (e.g. television) or at sudden noises. Some dogs also develop epilepsy. Middle aged to older dogs (age range 5-8 years) of both sexes can be affected. Unfortunately there is not a completely effective treatment, however many are improved on anti-epileptic drugs.

Although the myoclonus (jerking) and epilepsy can get worse it does not appear to shorten the life of affected dogs; they do not appear to develop the severe neurological signs ( status epilepticus and death) that characterizes the human form of the disease, which occurs because affected dogs are missing a vital enzyme involved with carbohydrate metabolism. This results in the storage of a polyglucasan storage material (Lafora bodies) within the brain and some other tissues. The material interferes with synaptic transmission. Diagnosis is by a dna test.

Many cases progress to Dementia over time. Lafora’s Disease can also cause increasing blindness and deafness too.

The abnormal gene which causes this disease has been identified and a DNA test is now available.

If at least one of the parents of your puppy is either tested clear or hereditary clear for this disease your puppy will remain healthy.

Do not buy a puppy if not as there is a high risk of the disease as 50% of the breed carry the gene. If two are bred together 1 in 4 of the pups could be affected and suffer from this.

All Dajean Dachshunds are clear of Laforas Epilepsy by hereditary or tests

Intervertebral Disc Disease (IVDD)

Probably the main health problem with Miniature Dachshunds is a condition called Intervertebral Disc Disease (IVDD). This disease is caused with the weakening of the discs between the vertebrae, in the spine. This can be caused by poor handling, jumping from height, over exercise, increased weight or strain on the spine or the main cause is usually due to obesity. Obesity is a very common cause basically because Dachshunds will eat practically anything put in front of them.

There is a high degree of inheritance to this disease and some varieties of dachshunds suffer more often than others.

Suggestions for helping prevent further injury or pain to your Miniature Dachshund’s spine are confining your dog to their crate / cage to prevent any undue movement or stress on their spine at first signs. Drugs that can be prescribed by your vet to ease pain are anti-inflammatory medication, steroids or non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs like carprofen and meloxicam. If your Dachshund suffers from chronic back pain they can also be prescribed with tramadol. In more severe cases the disc contents can be removed. In the event of the worst case of paralysis your Miniature Dachshund may require a cart to get them around.

There has recently (01/12/16) been a new test set up for young breeding stock (2-4 years old) which may help us to know the potential risk of ivdd and the hereditary nature of how it affects our dogs. The dogs have their backs xrayed and the number of calcifications between the discs are counted as there is a correlation between that and the future risk of ivdd and we should breed from those with fewer calcifications to reduce puppies risk.

All Dajean Dachshunds are scored for ivdd.

Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA)

A common problem with Miniature Dachshunds and many other breeds of dog is Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) or Progressive Retinal Degeneration (PRD). This disease can affect some breeds of dog early in their life. PRA is a family of diseases which gradually degrade the retina. It will affect your dog’s ability to see in the dark or low light levels. If your Dachshund’s environment remains constant he/she should be able to adapt well to this disability. You can recognise PRA/PRD forming by checking your dog’s eyes for increasingly dilated pupils which will cause a ‘shine’ to their eyes. The lens of the eye may appear cloudy or opaque, resulting in a cataract.

There is a DNA test for the disease and if buying a puppy make sure that at least one parent is either tested clear or hereditary clear of the disease.

If one of your pup’s parents is tested clear your puppy should remain healthy as two genes for the disease are needed to be affected by it.

There are other eye diseases which are checked by eye experts through the RKC eye schemes. We do this when possible.

All Dajean Dachshunds are clear of Pra by hereditary or tests.

Dachshund Characteristics

Temperament

Dachshunds are active dogs, and will take as much exercise as you can give them. They are, however, just as happy curled up on your lap, snoozing. They are sociable with other family pets, especially other dachshunds, are very loyal to their owners. But can take an unhealthy interest in small furries unless brought up with them from the start! They make keen watchdogs, although they need to be taught when to stop, and due to their small size, are inexpensive to keep. However it should be stated that it is advisable to insure them for around £7,000+ in case of back problems in the future. Although management can go a long way to preventing this. Especially keeping them fit and not fat, not neutering before 18 months and learning to pick them up and carry them correctly. Wires are the most extrovert and active of the coat types in Dachshunds. All miniatures make ideal pets for those who want a small affectionate companion.

Socialisation

Socialisation is a vital part of training a dachshund. Without proper training a dachshund may be wary of strangers and other dogs, particularly bigger dogs or those breeds with short noses! They must also be introduced to small children at a young age if children are to be part of their lives.

Training

The Dachshund is a typical hound and is inclined to use its voice. They are not noted for their obedience, but can be trained, given persistence by the owner.They do like to get their nose down when off lead and can go deaf when it suits them so recall training and offlead practice right from the start is imperative!

Coats

Smooth-haired – Dense, short, smooth and shiny requiring little maintenance. Most common colours are Black and Tan, Red, Chocolate/Tan and Dapple.

Long-haired – Soft and straight with feathering on underparts, ears, behind legs and tail where it forms a flag. Coat requires regular grooming. Most common colours are Black and Tan, Red (ranging from Cream to Shaded Red), Chocolate/Tan and Silver Dapple.

Wire-haired have harsh body hair, beards and eyebrows. Depending on the texture of the coat, which can range from a short hard “pinwire” coat needing little care, to “hairy” which if harsh may need stripping two or three times a year (they don’t moult so need the dead coat plucked out). If a softer “non-standard” coat, stripping may not be possible and the coat may need clipping. The most common colours are “Wild Boar” (often called Brindle) where the individual hairs are striped, giving an overall grizzled reddish brown or grey appearance (as opposed to the tiger striping of long and short coated Brindle dachshunds). Reds of many shades from foxred to almost cream with or without shading. Black or chocolate and tans, chocolate wild boars, and black/chocolate/wildboar dapples with tan markings.

Size

Miniature Dachshunds should weigh 10-11lbs (5kgs) Standards 20-26lbs (10-12kgs). However many pet Dachshunds are bigger than these ideal weights.

Average Life expectancy in the Kennel Club Survey was over 12 years but many make up to 18 years.

Shelley Tomsett Dajean Dachshunds

Why Buy Registered Pups?

“I’m not bothered about papers, I only want a pet”

To those buyers who think that papers are only for showing or breeding. You’ll say “I’m not bothered about papers, we only want a pet”. By doing this, you are (probably unknowingly) helping to support unscrupulous breeding and puppy farming.

The UK Government is working really, really hard to raise the standards of dog breeding in the UK and protect buyers (https://getyourpetsafely.campaign.gov.uk). They do this through developing licencing frameworks (breeders now need to be council inspected and licensed). Alongside this, the UK Kennel Club registration system helps protect the health and welfare of breeding bitches to prevent over-breeding and poor breeding practices, and also ensures the puppies come from ethical matings with regards to inbreeding and health.

When you say “I don’t care about papers”, what you are actually doing is choosing to bypass all those structures put in place to safeguard dog health and welfare, and you are putting money into the hands of someone who has actively chosen to operate outside the relevant structures that exist to protect dogs and ensure ethical breeding. Ask yourself, why would they do this? Is the health and wellbeing of my puppy and its mother their top priority? Probably not.

The bottom line is, you have prioritised buying a cheap puppy, over one that is more expensive but has been bred with care and due diligence. By buying a puppy without papers, you are saying it’s OK to dodge the system, and sell puppies with no regard to ethical breeding or safeguarding welfare.

If you bought a car you would expect to receive an MOT certificate and some form of warranty or guarantee. Registration papers for a puppy serve exactly the same purpose. Papers demonstrate that the mating was genetically healthy, that consideration was given to inbreeding and hereditary disease, and that the puppy was raised within a framework which protects the bitch from overbreeding.

Sure, the system isn’t perfect and there will always be people who abuse it, but it offers a much more ethical pathway than someone who bypasses the process altogether.

Be responsible, please don’t undermine the efforts of ethical breeders, the Government and countless animal welfare organisations: always buy a puppy with papers. Papers are not just for those who want to breed or show, they are an indication of responsible breeding.

If you buy a puppy without papers, you are demonstrating that you support unscrupulous, unethical (and possibly illegal) breeding practices. You are undermining the efforts of good breeders, and you are probably lining the pockets of all those people that the animal charities you donate to, or the petitions you sign, are trying to stop.

Why Would Pups From RKC (Royal Kennel Club) Parents Not Be Registered?

There is usually a reason why pups are not registered.

Either parents were endorsed by the breeder who didn’t want them bred from (which may be because there is a hereditary health problem which is ok in that litter as one parent is clear but the progeny may carry that and should be tested before breeding).

The mother has had too many litters ( the RKC will only allow 4 which is quite enough for any Dachshund bitch) so to breed more they cant register.
One parent isn’t RKC registered at all.
The parent has failed a health test and you would see if the offspring were registered.
The bitch was mated too young (under 12 months) or too old ( over 8 years) against RKC rules.
They are trying to avoid tax or licencing.

So, basically most unregistered litters have a very good reason for you to not want to buy from their, mostly greeder, breeders.

SOCIALISING NEW PUPPIES

So you have a new puppy that’s great. Now your troubles are starting! To try and prevent future problems as your darling ball of fluff grows into a strapping killer here are some pointers to socialising your puppy.

From a very early age puppies should be introduced to as many new experiences as possible with the owners trying very hard not to over comfort the pup if it seems unduly worried. For instance when your puppy receives his first injection from the vet, if he squeaks a bit try to resist the urge to grasp him to you telling him what a nasty person the vet is and did that enormous needle hurt your poor little baby! The pup immediately thinks “Gosh, that must have hurt me much more than I thought it did because mum (or dad) is making such a fuss, I must remember to cry again in the future so I can get all this again
From about five weeks of age puppies should be introduced to all sorts of humans i.e. men, woman, elderly people and especially children if possible. Lots of pups are brought up in all female households and subsequently can be uneasy near men. Check when you select your puppy that he is not frightened of people When you get him home introduce him to as many people as possible Take him to the pub for a quick pint you not the dog — and encourage strangers to pet him and touch him gently of course and not too many as to totally overwhelm the poor little mite. Again try not to fuss or comfort him too much — he could feel that you are frightened of these people and become nervous himself*.

Encourage him to meet toddlers (make sure he’s properly wormed and get rid of any of his faeces that are lying about). Obviously make sure the kids don’t view him as a punch bag and that he can get away from them if he has had enough of being a new toy.
As soon as you get your new pup try to get him to meet other dogs (and cats). You can’t let him walk freely in public places until he’s about 12 weeks old when his vaccinations are complete but you can take him to meet friends dogs who you know are healthy (and preferably vaccinated). Pups should be socialised before they are 18 weeks old so the more different dogs he meets in his early life the better. Once you can take him out ask people with other dogs if your new pup can meet their dog making sure that neither one ends up as the other one’s breakfast.
Take him in the car as often as possible. This is such an essential part of most people’s lifestyle that the new puppy must learn to be comfortable in the car as soon as possible. Again try to give him minimal amount of fuss when he cries or vomits over your new jacket! your comforting can reinforce his fears If necessary allow him in to the car while it is stationary even maybe feeding him in the car so that he associates it with something pleasant — apart from trips to the dreaded vets.

Talking about vets the first thing most vets will want to do when you take an animal to the surgery — apart from their peculiar obsession with inserting thermometers up the creatures backside — is to examine the animal’s head. So I do advise owners of new puppies to handle the pup’s head looking at his eyes, his ears, his teeth lift up his lips and inside his mouth bearing in mind that at 4-5 months the pup will be teething and may be a bit tender round its mouthe Hopefully this playing with your puppy at an early age will minimize his potential fear of vets when they need to examine him in the future, also his feet and tail, touching his nails and pads. This has been a quick light-hearted list of suggestions of how you can hopefully help your new pup mature into a well adjusted, trustworthy, much loved family pet of the future.

Toilet Training

Start as you want to go on. Be firm, fair and consistent. Everyone in the house must know the rules and commands so as not to confuse the dog.

Don’t give your dog too great a sense of their importance on your life and their place in the family hierarchy! If you plan children in the future a dog needs to know where it stands!

Start training straight away. Don’t use puppy pads as they confuse pups.

Crate training helps so much with housetraining.

It is also good to get them used to a crate early in case they have ivdd and need confining for that or any illness if already used to it.

This is my experienced view with 45+ years of breeding and selling pups.

Toilet training is relatively simple and should take only a few weeks to establish the routine. Bad habits can take longer to resolve so the key word is ‘patience‘.

Puppies have poor bladder control and need to go several times an hour when they are awake. Try to take your puppy outside First thing in the morning, last thing at night, after each meal, waking from a nap and after any exercise, play or excitement.

Keeping a record of when your puppy goes to the toilet may help you identify any patterns that emerge.

Always go with your puppy into the garden to establish a regular spot. Puppies are creatures of habit so regular spot is best established as early as possible. Introducing a cue word will help the puppy associate the word with the action and eventually go on command. Praise is essential, regardless of how silly you may feel! Try not to use “good boy/girl” as you may find your puppy toileting during training. Use “Go wee/poo” instead.

Reasons for toilet training not working could be:

You are feeding too much
Food is unsuitable
Irregular feeding times
Feeding at the wrong time (your puppy may need to go in the middle of the night)
Food is too salty (causing your puppy to drink more)

Punishing your puppy for accidents may make your puppy scared to go in front of you – even outside
Leaving a door open all the time causes confusion when the puppy suddenly finds access blocked
Leaving your puppy alone for too long (including all night)

Rugs and carpets can be confusing to a puppy so be vigilant. Do not clean up using ammonia based products as they can smell like urine to your puppy and can encourage them to go there again. Likewise with an area not cleaned well enough. Remember how sensitive dog’s noses are. You may not smell it but they can. Using household biological washing detergent works best. Keep some made up in a spray bottle for accidents.

Out on walks many owners become frustrated that their puppies hold it until they get home. Puppies take time to associate walks with toilet so try to time walks carefully. (no walks within an hour before or after food! This can cause bloat). Walks with other owners that have older dogs can help. If you are not successful please remember to take your dog to the garden or straight back out again this avoiding a large puddle in the hallway.

All puppies are different so don’t listen to the ‘expert’ in the park who tells you that their little angel was trained in a fortnight. Many pups aren’t completely dry until nearly six months old, whilst others may take longer.

Dog Crates and Crate Training

Many people think this is true, as they would certainly not want to be locked in a crate, (note that dog crates and dog cages are the same thing) for any length of time themselves. Well, this is not the case for dogs who are “den” animals. Look at where they want to spend most of their sleep and relaxation time- under the table, tucked in a corner of the room, in the wild, wolves and wild dogs are known to burrow holes to sleep in.

Hopefully, you are getting the picture. Basically, dogs like to feel safe and secure when sleeping and to have somewhere they can be alone. A dog crate is able to provide this safe haven.

A crate helps to address many of the problems that cause stress and anxiety to pet owners. It serves a useful purpose to prevent and rectify problems associated with destructive behaviour and fear of strangers or other types of people. They can help with housetraining, with visitors who are afraid of dogs, children’s safety and travelling with your dog.

The best places for a crate or cage are in the corner of family rooms, away from too much heat and cold draughts. Dogs like to be near to their pack, (which is you and your family), so locate the crate where your dog can see and hear you. It is a good idea (at the start) for the crate to be the dog’s only bed.

A dog crate is usually a rectangle enclosure constructed of wire, plastic, canvass or even wood. Some people prefer to start out with a wire crate as these are less prone to being chewed.

Size: Whichever type of crate you get it should be large enough to allow your dog to stretch out on his side without being cramped and to sit without hitting their head on the top. Also remember that if it is too large it defeats the purpose of providing security and promoting bowel control! 24” suits a miniature Dachshund.

Material: Avoid cheap wire crates as they are not worth it as they may be chewed or collapse!

Dividers; If purchasing a crate large enough for your dog when adult, block off part of it initially so that the puppy feels snug and secure and is less likely to dirty its bed. Build bowel control as the puppy will

Cover; It is a good idea to have a cover to darken the inside and promote a secure feeling for the puppy.

Bedding; I recommend the bedding covers the entire floor of the crate (ie. Don’t leave an area for soiling). This helps build bowel control as the puppy will not want to soil it’s bed. It may have an accident but if you set and alarm at night this can help. Extending the time gradually as the pup gets older until it goes all night.

Water; If left for any length of time a clip-on bowl for water is necessary but remove this at night time.

It is best to start crate-training from the start as a puppy. Older dogs can be trained but it is easier if you start when young.

Plan to use the crate at least until a year when the worst destructive stage is over and housetraining has been completed.

Most dogs and puppies will not soil their bed. But you need to take your puppy outside at regular intervals during the day to allow the opportunity to defecate in the correct place (see toilet training leaflet). Accidents will happen but to minimize them place the crate where you can hear the puppy if it cries at night so that you can take it outside to relieve itself. Alternatively, set an alarm for 3-4 hours after bedtime and take the puppy out then. Gradually extend the time by 15 minutes every few days until it is going all night. Do not punish the puppy if it soils the crate! Remember he is a baby and can’t hold it very long so take it out more often. Use biological washing powder/liquid made up to clean any accidents in the crate or on the floor as it removes the odour better than most household cleaning products which contain Ammonia, the strongest part of urine!

Crates are not just for puppies, they are also a valuable help with behavioural problems in adolescent and mature dogs. Acclimatising older dogs is a lot harder and requires more patience. Especially important in the case of Dachshunds in case of ivdd.

You can’t lock your dog in a crate and expect the whole concept to work. It won’t. You will need time and patience to introduce the crate to successfully ensure your dog sees it as a home and special place. Here are a few guidelines.

Start by leaving the crate door open and place all of the dogs toys inside. If it wants a toy it has to go inside to get it. You can use treats to further encourage it to enter the crate. Day by day move the toys and treats further inside, it will only take a few days for the dog to stay in the crate and lie down happily.

After a few days of napping and sleeping in the open crate, quietly close the door (preferably while your dog is sleeping) and leave it closed until it wakes up. Once awake, open the door, praise it and release from the crate. Gradually build up the time in the crate before release. Eventually you will be able to stay in the room with the crate door closed, and your dog will lay quietly till it falls asleep.

Once this is comfortable for your dog, leave the house but return immediately. Move on to leaving a bit longer each day (3minutes, 5 minutes, 7,15,1/2 hr and so on) until no crying or barking happens if left for an hour or two. Continue increasing the time and work to getting a fixed routine of leaving the dog with a treat (a filled kong or similar, frozen to last longer) and going out.

Put your dog in the crate for regular intervals during the day up to 2 hours maximum. Don’t crate only when leaving the house. Put him in a crate when you are home too. Use it as a “safe” zone. If you crate as a part of everyday routine he won’t assume you are leaving him and so is less likely to suffer with separation anxiety. Make it clear to children that the crate is not a playhouse or den for them but a “special place” just for the dog. Although the crate is your dog’s haven and safe place, it must not be off-limits to humans. Get him used to you putting your hand inside with him at any time. Never let him out of his crate while barking or whining (unless toilet training) or he will think that is the key to getting let out. Say a loud “quiet” and wait for 30 seconds before releasing him.

Most importantly, NEVER USE THE CRATE AS A PUNISHMENT, OR DISCIPLINE HIM WHILE IN THE CRATE! It is his safe haven, a place of safety and security and should not be associated with negative experiences!

Most dogs and puppies will not soil their “den” but you should ensure you take puppies outside every ½-1 hour at least from the start. However accidents may happen especially at night, so to minimize this, take them out last thing at night and first thing in the morning (even if you only get up for the toilet yourself). If you hear your puppy whining or barking in the night you need to get up and let him out to relieve himself. Or set your alarm to get up as a routine gradually extending the time until he goes through the night.Do not punish the dog if he soils the crate. Remember, a new puppy needs to go out every ½-1 hour. After every meal, after waking and if you see him sniffing the floor or turning circles with nose down and tail up. Immediately clean any accidents with a special odour remover or biological washing powder/liquid made up in a spray bottle as most household cleaners contain ammonia which smells similar to urine so to a dog makes him think it is the right place to go.

This may help: https://www.armchairdogs.co.uk/product-category/information-and-advice/

Lead Training

Put his collar and lead on and let him drag it about the floor supervising of course. He will tread on it occasionally and realise that it sometimes pulls but stops without hurting him. Then in the garden the same. Once he has got the hang of not treading on it pick up the end while he is facing you and call him to you. As he gets to you, treat, walk away, call, treat, keep walking backwards calling him. Once he is coming immediately start to turn sideways, keep talking all the time and treating him every few steps. Then turn forwards still talking and treating and do a few paces forwards still treating every few steps. If the lead pulls tight or pup tries to get away drop the lead and try again later. Never frighten a pup on a lead. Once he is coming easily, make a big fuss and remove lead. Play.

Next day straight in garden, do the same turning more quickly. Then take out front of the house sit in the drive watching traffic. Let him wander around if happy but no actual walking. Next day straight out front, if the traffic doesnt worry him carry him a small way up the street and walk back home. If he is happy next outing see if he will walk away from the house.

Also take to a park and let him run around you on the lead. Puppies usually follow you as babies so enjoy it while tiny.

BUT, if the lead goes tight please follow your pup as long as safe as you must not frighten them at this stage by pulling hard. Watch all the time to keep him enjoying it. Dont let big dogs run up to him at this stage keep your eyes open and pick him up if dogs are big and pushy.